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Hide Glue Basics (taken from Luscombe's forum)
Date Added: May 11, 2008 09:16:31 AM
Author:
Category: x Violin Making x: Violinmaker's Resources
Some put a couple of teaspoons of water into the glue at this point in time. Between the fingers it should feel oily but not thick. If it feels watery, it is probably too thin. A 1" brush is nice for applying glue to fingerboards, nuts, saddles, and larger surfaces that require glueing.
 
Use a knife to apply the glue to an open seam (a brush is too thick). Leave the metal knife blade in the hot glue for at least a few moments, or it can quickly cool and gel the glue on the knife. Once hide glue has gelled, it will create a "cold joint" that will fail to obtain maximum strength.
 
For gluing cracks on the top or back of an instrument, rub the glue into the crack (this can be done with a brush or clean fingers) until it starts to come out the other side. Have appropriate clamps ready, so that it can be clamped while the glue is warm and thin enough.
 
Wipe the excess glue off the varnish. Wash it off unvarnished timber. Unvarnished timber absorbs glue or glue water and does not later on accept stain or stained varnish as easilily as the rest resulting in some lighter spots.
 
I recommend the medium strength (315 gram strength) glue. All strengths of hide glue can make a joint more stable and harder than the wood. The main differences in the glue is the drying time. The strong glue (380 gram) tacks faster, and the weaker glue (195 gram) gives more drying time. In my opinion, the 315 gram gives ideal results and gives suficcient time.
 
Dry hide glue can go on indefinitely. Once the glue has been dissolved in water, however, it the glue will typically only last one day. The second day it shows small moldy pits in the surface. By the third day it can be green and furry. In the cooler winter weather it lasts longer. Refrigerating the glue can extent its useful life too.
 
Ready-to-use hide glue can be obtained. The reports about its qualities vary.
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